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Walking to Samarkand: The Great Silk Road from Persia to Central Asia-Bernard Ollivier,Dan Golembeski

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Acclaimed journalist Bernard Ollivier continues his epic journey across Persia and Central Asia as he walks the length of the Great Silk Road.   Walking to Samarkand is journalist Bernard Ollivier’s stunning account of the second leg of his 7,200-mile walk from Istanbul, Turkey, to Xi’an, China, along the Silk Road--the longest and perhaps most mythical trade route of all time. Picking up where Out of Istanbul left off, Ollivier heads out of the Middle East and into Central Asia, grappling not only with his own will to continue but with new, unforeseen dangers. After crossing the final mountain passes of Turkish Kurdistan, Ollivier sets foot in Iran, keen on locating vestiges of the silk trade as he passes through Persia’s modern cities and traditional villages, including Tabriz, Tehran, Nishapur, and the holy city of Mashhad. Beyond urban areas lie deserts: first Iran’s Great Salt Desert, then Turkmenistan’s forbidding Karakum, whose relentless sun, snakes, and scorpions pose continuous challenges to Ollivier’s goal of reaching Uzbekistan.   Setting his own fears aside, he travels on, wonderstruck at every turn, borne by a childhood dream: to see for himself the golden domes and turquoise skies of Samarkand, one of Central Asia’s most ancient cities. But what Ollivier enjoys most are the people along the way: Askar, the hospitable gardener; the pilgrims of Mashhad; and his knights in shining armor, Mehdi and Monir. For, despite setting out alone, he comes to find that walking itself—through a kind of alchemy—surrounds him with friends and fosters fellowship.   From the authoritarian mullahs of revolutionary Iran to the warm welcome of everyday Iranians—custodians of age-old, cordial Persian culture; from the stark realities of former Soviet republics to the region’s legendary bazaars—veritable feasts for the senses—readers discover, through the eyes of a veteran journalist, the rich history and contemporary culture of these amazing lands.  

Book Walking to Samarkand: The Great Silk Road from Persia to Central Asia Review :



With the continuation of the author’s exploration walk along the Silk Road, we are treated to an enchanting adventure full of the good and bad that he finds along the road. Bernard’s indomitable spirit, his determination, and, at times, his bravery in the face of adversity draw the reader in and wanting more. The book brings the reader along on an armchair adventure. On the journey, you root for him when he is low, fear for him when he is obviously in danger, and rejoice with him in his success. One of the best parts of the book is the tour of discovery. Bernard was determined to find the old historical markers of the Silk Road along the way. The old caravansaries along the Silk Road, many in major disrepair, others buried lost relics of a forgotten past. It’s a shame that some of the countries along the Silk Road have little interest in maintaining this history. I am eager to resume my walking adventure in the third installment. I will be back on the road with Bernard eager, and wanting more.
This is the second book in the four Ollivier did 20 years ago to document his mammoth walking tour along the Silk Road. I was entranced by the first one - Out of Istanbul: A Journey of Discovery along the Silk Road -and went on to this one. I am not a walker, and I do feel he was a bit of a glutton for punishment - but Turkey and Uzbekistan are places I have been to, and I dream of going to Iran as well should that become possible. (A couple of years ago I was booked to go but they wanted me to get a journalist's visa even though I had been retired for years and have never written about the Middle East so I did not go. It didn't seem to be a good idea). Anyway the descriptions of the terrain and the food and the people are hypnotizing. Also kudos for the translater, Dan Golembeski , who turns Ollivier's French into totally seamless English.

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